Thursday, May 5, 2011
Trottoli, An Unusual Pasta
I boiled the pasta and made a sauce by sweating finely chopped celery, onion and garlic in butter, then adding some white wine and the packing liquid (tomato juice) from a can of San Marzano tomatoes. I reduced it all down to a fairly dense paste, then added the pasta and a little of the pasta water. Cooking the pasta in the sauce for the last couple of minutes, tossing frequently, I was able to get the sauce to fill the crevices of the noodle just as I had hoped.
I plated the trottoli with a little chopped tarragon and mint, then grated some parmigiano and scattered some finely chopped almonds and finished with a little olive oil and sea salt. Trottoli are a really cool pasta and I'm pretty sure I'll use them more. They're big enough to entertain your mouth individually* and when you bite into them the sauce trapped inside gushes onto your tongue and seems to amplify the flavors in the sauce. Because each trottolo (?) is so substantial chopped nuts and crunchy sea salt work well by adhering to the outside in contrast with the vegetal sauce trapped in the noodle itself.
I think I'm going to try trottoli with a cheese sauce or some kind of veloute-based sauce next. I just need to figure out a flavor profile that suits this sort of delivery. (vg)
* That's what she said.
Posted by Steve Albini at 5:39 AM